Add to this unexpected events and I’m in Paradise…
During July last year, I was privileged to again (my 4th trip) visit Paris for a whole month! In Paris there is always something new to discover – despite the many visits – and many ways to explore. (Do read the entertaining book by John Baxter: The Most Beautiful Walk in the World. A Pedestrian in Paris - ISBN 978-1-78072-043-2. An equally delightful read is J’aime Paris by Alain Ducasse - ISBN 9781742701875.)
A bonus was the Bastille Day festivities on July 14. Early that morning we were awakened by ear-splitting noise as jets, flying low in formation over our studio building, were part of a massive display of France’s Air Force. One formation after the other streaked across the clear sky. It was obvious that France was immensely proud of this force. It was almost as if they were writing a message in the sky: “Don’t mess with us!” When at last the sound of these impressive fast-flying birds subsided, the helicopters, like giant, steel dragonflies droned contentedly like millions of bees, chasing the pigeons to nervously seek resting places amongst the chimneys.
Next we heard the clip-clop of horses’ hooves as they paraded through the main streets, next to the river Seine. Clearly France was just as proud of these beautifully groomed beasts dressed in feathery headdresses. Later we walked up the hill towards the Pantheon, where a brass orchestra finished off the last march. In front of this impressive building, tanks and a great selection of artillery and land defence force equipment was being displayed and youngsters were encouraged to climb up and act out their dreams.
The impression was one of (benign) STRENGHT.
Yet, an unease wafted in the balmy summer air…
Unlike my previous stay (of two months), eight years ago, there was a constant, 24/7 police presence in parked cars in the courtyard of the Shoah Holocaust Foundation, right next to our studio building. There, a tall, long wall poignantly carried the names of deceased Jews. Many names … And photos of dejected people with empty eyes made one shudder … Shortly after Bastille Day, I returned from a visit to the art centre Pompidou late one Saturday afternoon. Finding the streets of The Marais arrondissement (area) full of armoured police vans and police dressed in combat wear I was astounded to see a van struggling to make a U-turn in a narrow alley. “What’s happening?” I asked the young policeman. With exceptionally blue eyes and with a charming accent he replied, “The Muslims, they wanted to demonstrate. The government said, ‘NO! Illegal!’ They do the demonstration anyway. Now we do the manifestation! We wear this special gear because they throw those Molotovs that can cause fire.” He seemed quite proud of the fact that rue Rivoli was packed, bumper to bumper with police vans with sirens screeching. A display of POWER.
A week later, again on a late Saturday afternoon, I was working in my studio. Suddenly I heard very loud shouts. As I looked out of the window, many other heads bobbed out. Down in the narrow street below I counted 21 strong young men, all with the identifying checked keffiyeh scarves around their heads, shouting slogans as they rushed down the alley. Instantly, the police started their car and so that they could give chase, but a policeman on motorbike rushed after the men. At the bottom of the street nervous tourists showed the policemen which of the diverging streets the men had used for their escape. Gooseflesh had run down my arms, because only a short while before I had walked down that street! How absolutely amazing that the street was now completely empty, despite 302 artists’ studios and roughly 600 artists staying in the surrounding buildings, with young people constantly walking to the superette around the corner…
I never expected anything like this.
Winter time is not a favourite visiting time for tourists. So one hopes that there were not many travellers in Paris during the recent horrific happenings. Memories are not made like that…
BY ADRIANA COETZEE
