Forget about the Chelsea Flower Show or the Dutch Tulip Show, and rather place this spectacular encounter on your calendar.
The main gardens of the Alhambra palaces are the adjoining Generalife (derived from the Arab word, ‘djennat’, meaning garden, orchard or paradise), which was used as a retreat, where the Granadan monarchs could relax.
Entering the first of the cypress lanes, called the Cyprus Walk, one is inclined to stop and to first look up at these tall needle-like cypresses, reaching high as to compete with the towers, turrets and spires close by.
Cypress trees (as I remembered from my youth) have always been associated with graveyards and cemeteries. Here I learnt why: Their roots apparently grow straight and deep and therefore do not break into tombs!
Another reason they were favoured by the Muslim architects of the Alhambra, is that cypresses seek water deep down and could also be planted closely, forming dense, evergreen screening hedges. So tall and dense are these hedges, that they link to form natural canopies, turning the lanes into cool romantic walks.
All that remained from the original gardens, were the terraced orchards, planted with mixtures of ornamental and fruit trees, climbing to the very top of the hill. The breathtakingly beautiful present gardens began in 1931 were finished in 1951, under the guidance of the architect Prieto Moreno.
This entailed replanting of cypress, myrtle, elm and birch trees. Also, other fruit trees - oranges, plums and, of course, pomegranates - were added. Pillars and pagodas were erected for climbing roses, bougainvillea, vines and ivies. Hedges of box, clipped into intricate edges, and an abundance of decorative trees like magnolias further enhanced the profusion of flowers; perennials and annuals - mostly self-seeding. It has been recorded that the gardens contain 160 different species!
On the cool Spring morning of our visit, I was overwhelmed by the fresh beauty. What appealed to me greatly was the separate ‘garden rooms’. Not just the popular cliché, but acting as small ‘courtyards’ and resembling the local carmenes. A carmen is derived from the traditional Andalusian house with a courtyard, containing fruit trees and flowers.
Here they were beautifully balanced with topiaries, box hedges, water fountains, pools with water lilies, fragrant rose bushes and a profusion colour-coordinated flowers, like bright red cockscomb next to pink Gerberas! And acting as a backdrop, foliage shrubs and tall cypresses.
Each of these ‘rooms’ offered an individual surprise. All the elements of good design (form, colour, balance, harmony, texture, variety) were in place! Contrast created an understated energy: earthenware pots containing silver-leafed, low-growing plants were evenly spaced between red chillies; fluffy, bright yellow mimosa flowers against the dark green of cypress; mauve wisteria drooping down ochre-coloured walls; purple irises are planted in a bed with yellow and white pansies; pink pride of India trees next to yellow day lilies, with pink rosemary next to white May flower…
And everywhere … water! Spouting jets in criss-cross arches or gurgling around pebbles; as focal points in long rectangular shapes, or round discs.
All the walks are paved in traditional Granadan style, mosaics created by using small white and black pebbles, as also in the courtyards and squares.
“The (traditional) garden was to be enjoyed with all the senses: the sight and smell of the flowers, the sound of water and the feel and taste of fruit as they were picked from the trees while walking beneath them.”
Indeed! Although I saw no birds or butterflies, I am positive they feel the same.
BY ADRIANA COETZEE
